Slush is way more viscous and much harder to paddle through than regular salt water. On a positive note, it smoothed out even the strongest of onshore winds into the cleanest waves I’ve ever seen in an otherworldly setting reminiscent of Hoth, the icy planet from the Star Wars Trilogy.
Previously, whenever I’ve had the chance to surf a new wave, I usually tend to err on the side of caution and baby step my way into the lineup. In this case, I ended up paddling out solo in ridiculously inhospitable conditions. Two thoughts came to mind as I slipped into the milky substance and considered the price of admission: What about the 24ft long giant squid (also referred to as a Kraken in Maritime lore) that had once washed up on the shore of a nearby community? Would I end up being the lone idiot stuck in salty quicksand the middle of the bay?
I’ve been taking surf photos for over 10 years. Being a surf photographer is very challenging. It’s a tough industry to be in and requires a lot of different skill sets. I’ve tried to get photos of different locations than the more typical surf destinations and have carved a niche for myself as a cold water/exploration surf photographer which generally involves a lot more effort than going somewhere like Indonesia with guaranteed warm water waves.